Obtaining a Police Report in Madrid

Obtaining a police report in Madrid is actually relatively quick and painless. You may be thinking, ‘why would I need a police report?’

You could need a police report for a foreign visa, for example, or for a variety of other legal reasons. If you do need proof that you’re not a criminal (at least not here in Spain that is), you’ll need a police report from the Spanish authorities. Here’s a step-by-step guide to getting your official “certificado de antecedentes penales”.

Go to the Ministerio de Justicia, which is located in the Plaza de Jacinto Benavente, very close to Cine Ideal. They are open until 5pm, but the banks close at 2pm (see below), so I recommend going before 1pm to get this all taken care of in one visit.

• Pick up the appropriate form in the entry way (the one that says antecedentes penales).
• Fill out the form. It’s basic info like name, address, etc.
• Go to a local bank, there are a bunch near the Ministerio, such as the Caja Madrid on Calle Carretas, and pay 3,54 Euro. You need to have the form filled out before they will process the fee. You do not need to have an account at the bank to process this.
• After the bank stamps your form, go back to the Ministerio de Justicia and take a number from the machine. Make sure you select antecedentes penales from the options on the screen and it will print the appropriate ticket.
• When your number is called, go to the window. Have your passport with you, as you will need to show it to the representative. You will also need to state why you need the report. The representative will print the report.
• Then you sit again and wait for your number to be called again.
• When it’s called the second time take the report and go to another desk. The person here will place an Apostille on the back side of the report.

And, wha la! You are in possession of proof that you are an upstanding citizen here in Spain.

Making friends in Madrid (part II)

I arrived in Madrid two months ago and already feel sad when I think about returning to France in August. There are many explanations for this (the warm weather, beautiful city, holidays and markets etc) but there was one very specific reason everything went well from day one: my first Spanish night out immediately introduced me to the people who became my friends here and gave me a feeling of confidence in a brand new, otherwise strange city. And the event responsible for this seamless integration was none other than the Fiesta con AIL in Madrid organized by my Spanish academy, AIL Madrid.

You may be wondering, “what’s that, ‘Fiesta con AIL?” I would answer: certainly the most fun way to practice Spanish. Every Friday night at 10pm, AIL students, teachers, and team meet in a cool bar (the place changes every week) in order to spend time with each other and meet new people while enjoying some good drinks. This is by far the best way to meet people in the same situation as you; recently arrived in Madrid, looking to improve their Spanish skills, and open-minded/looking forward to making new friends.

I’m a prime example of how well it works: I set foot in Madrid on Wednesday and, thanks to the following Friday Fiesta con AIL, immediately had exciting Saturday night plans with new friends!

Now, I’m a regular: there’s no better way to celebrate the arrival of the weekend than by gathering with your friends in a good atmosphere and meeting new people who will enrich your stay and allow you to practice your Spanish.

This is the most anticipated event of the week for AIL students, making AIL an unique group of friends that offers so much more than just Spanish classes. If you’re feeling particularly enthusiastic, many students also go to the Se Habla Español Intercambio on Thursdays, which provides another great occasion to see familiar faces before Fiesta con AIL on Friday.

The bottom line is that I can’t recommend a better way to make friends and learn Spanish at the same time than by becoming an AIL student, so I look forward to see you on your first Friday in Madrid!

Night buses in Madrid

Life at night is part of the appeal of Madrid, a time when the streets are often as busy as they are during the day, just with more laughter, shouting, and high heels. However, once the clock chimes 1:30, the trusty metro system turns into a proverbial pumpkin: if you aren’t on a train by this hour, there is a good chance there won’t be another one until 6 AM. Thus, understanding the Night Buses in Madrid. This system is an integral part of staying out late and getting home in one piece.

There are two types of night buses:

• N-buses, or Los Búhos (the Spanish word for owls – cute, huh?): These are 24 buses named with an N in front, all of which center their operations on the Plaza de Cibeles in the center of town and radiate out. These are a good choice if you have been out in the center and everyone in your group is heading home in different directions without prior planning; the various bus stops around the plaza clearly advertise where each búho goes and can help you find the one that will take you home. After your first trip on a búho, save that number: if the N7 bus takes you home, start mentally noting the stops so you don’t always have to head back to Cibeles in order to catch the N7 home.
• L-buses, or the Metro Replacement Lines: These buses run the approximate above-ground routes of the metros, stopping at or near as many metro stations as possible. These are good for a variety of reasons: they come every 15 minutes, their names correspond to the line number of the metro they replace, and they don’t force you to trek to Cibeles if you are hanging out a long walk away from there. Be aware, your particular metro stop might have been cut from this route (for instance, I lived at the end of the line 1 metro for a while, and the L1 bus doesn't go all the way up there, and it is impossible to walk the difference.)

Obviously, taxis in this city are not that expensive, and it is always a good idea to cultivate friends in the middle of town who have comfy couches or extra bedrooms where you can sleep off a long evening of fiesta, but knowing your above-ground options allows you to prolong your night. A good option if you don’t have time to memorize a new bus route before a night out is to download the Android app that lets you look up bus routes near your location.

My Neighborhood - Barrio de Las Letras (Huertas)

We have enjoyed living in our neighborhood in Madrid, Barrio de Las Letras or the Neighborhood of the Writers. There are so many things to think about when selecting where to live in Madrid. I can at least guide you through this wonderful historic district.

We live in the heart of Madrid, and thus the oldest and arguably the most historic part as well. Bordered by Plaza de Sol, Prado, and the Reina Sofia Museum of Modern Art, this area is easily accessible by line 1 on the metro or about five different buslines that run up along in front of the Prado.

The buildings here were built as far back as the late 1500’s, but most have been gutted and updated inside, while the historic exteriors remain. For instance our building was built around the same period, but as a single family townhome, and then it wasn’t until the 1980s that it was converted into apartments. Pluses for this is that it has newer plumbing and electrical, and the original exterior walls are about a foot thick. The Cons for some of these buildings is that they are smaller apartments than in some of the newer neighborhoods, thus most apartments in our area are only one or two bedrooms.

Our area is a very working/living neighborhood, in the sense that most of the owners in our building own businesses down below such as a hair salon or the drycleaners. It also a very traditional area in the sense that a lot of stores observe siestas, Spanish holidays and are closed on Sundays. The closest “true” supermercado is about a ten minute walk to Sol from our place, so I do most of my food shopping the true European way, by buying my meat in one store, fruit in another, and cheese in another shop.

Another plus to this neighborhood is that all the narrow streets are closed off in the evening to traffic, only taxis, neighborhood residents, and emergency vehicles have a pass card to get through. This really makes the area conducive to outdoor cafes, and the typical 5pm Spanish stroll. Plus, it keeps it quiet in the late evenings. The exception being Huertas, of course, which is lined with bars, small clubs and traditional Spanish restaurants all with the black wrought iron that reminds me of the French Quarter in New Orleans.

Besides the wine bars and jazz clubs in the area that I have written about in other posts, there are also two historical sites that are worth checking out. One is a plaque in front of the home of the great Spanish writer Cervantes, author of Don Quiote. Then down the street from his place is the playwright Lope de Vega’s home, which you can tour. (and well worth it)

Barrio de Las Letras is great area to live in if you like to be near all the culture during the day and tapa hopping by night all with a mix of traditional and eccentric locals, as well as tourists. Good luck if you are in the process of finding an apartment in Madrid.

Cervante’s home Corner of Calle Cervantes and Calle de Leon, 28014 Madrid, Spain

Lope de Vega’s home Calle de Cervantes, 11, 28014 Madrid, Spain 914 299 216

Vintage Madrid

When I arrived in Madrid I was surprised not only by its young and international vibe. The huge mix of cultures and the abundance of the trendy spots found in the Spanish capital amazed me. Like in many global cities, people there take full advantage of Madrid Vintage trends, and not just in hip areas.

So if you’re looking for something different, you can find this particular style in many shops. Clothing stores, cafes and restaurants, bars, etc: Madrid’s vintage world is a cool, fun way to discover the city. You’ll enjoy your time here!

With that in mind, here are a few of my favorite spots that I deeply recommend visiting during your stay!

The #1 spot for vintage clothing: Pepita is dead

Located near Atocha railway station, this shop specializes in vintage clothing for everyone. If you’re looking for any trendy piece dating back to anywhere between the 50s to 90s, then you’ll find your paradise!

A sunglasses museum as never seen before: Gafa Vintage

Located by Opera metro station, this totally vintage shop will submerge you in history up to the eyes! This pretty jewel for all hipsters and people suffering from nostalia is actually more than just a boutique: we can consider it as a museum, thanks to its exhibitions of cool shades! There you can achieve any of your wildest dreams by wearing the same trendy piece as your throwback idols.

A very original and trendy market: El Mercado de Motores

We all know that in Madrid there is a strong market culture, but this one is bit more original: it takes place every month between the wagons and locomotives of the railway museum and is one of the best, most successful free leisure alternatives. There, vendors sell decorative items, books, vinyl records, recycled furniture, classic bikes, handmade product…

Tasty, straight forward food in a vintage environment: Naif

On the corner of the very active Plaza de San Ildefonso in Malasaña, you will find this small but trendy restaurant that serves hamburgers, sandwiches and a little kindness to the many modern locals who continually select it as a meeting point. Vintage decorative items and a chill atmosphere enhance tasty Mexican dishes or simple drinks!

A strange and curious coffee shop with an antique feel: The Passenger

This is one of the most curious places in Madrid. When you enter into this bar, you will discover you’re really on a train. The dark wood chairs are spacious and comfortable and screens hang on the wall to emulate windows from which you can admire landscape passing by outside… all aboard!

A cosy and well designed bar: La Paca

This small vintage café of the very center of Madrid (Tribunal/Gran Via), hosts all kinds of different events events thanks to the infinite creativity of the owner: small markets, shows, artists exhibitions, presentations, miniconcerts…The majority of the clients are young, modern and cultivated!

Moving to Madrid: Making friends

So! You’ve made it to Madrid. Now what? Whether you’ve moved here for work or studies, everybody has one thing in common: everything’s new! The culture, the streets, and (most of all) the people are all unfamiliar and, sometimes, it can make you feel a little bit isolated or lonely. Fortunately, Madrid is also one of the friendliest cities and has infinite opportunities to meet new people! But one of the main think you’re moving to Madrid: Making Friends. Here are a few of the best options (in my opinion):

The International Way

My best experience meeting people and making friends was through my Spanish classes (which you may be able to see some enthusiasm about in my previous articles). Through my classes at AIL Madrid, I discovered a community of international people who, though from all parts of the world, shared my enthusiasm and interest in Spain and Spanish language and culture. They also understood what it was like to move here without knowing anyone and those who had been here a while had some great advice and insights to offer me. Aside from that, the academy itself offers really fun cultural activities and hosts a big party with students and staff alike every Friday (called Noche de Copas). In this way, you feel like you have a friend group and an active schedule from day one. For me, this one takes the cake!

The Guiri Way

Another way to feel immediately comfortable is to connect with your fellow guiris (foreigner and, in this case, English speaking). This might not improve your Spanish or give you the feeling of embarking on adventure, but it will definitely give you confidence and a loving community right here in Madrid. A few places to meet other guiris are through facebook groups (for auxiliaries, au pairs, Erasmus, entrepreneurs etc) or at some of the classic guiri hangouts (such as J&J books, la bicicleta, and pretty much any bar in Malasaña).

The At-Home Way

Sharing an apartment with other people can seem great or daunting, depending on who you are, but it will always improve your social life. This is especially true if you live with Spaniards, who are sure to introduce you to all their friends and adopt you as one of their own. If you choose to live with other foreigners, this can also be a great introduction to the guiri community. Long live the Flat Mate Solution!

The Ripped Way

My final suggestion for meeting people is a classic no matter where you live: join the gym! While not guaranteed to make you friends, this will put you in an energetic environment with lots of other people from your neighborhood. Overcome your fears and strike up a conversation; you never know where your best friendships might bloom!

Madrid's fascinating museums

Museo del Prado

The Museo del Prado holds the most complete collection of Spanish art in the world. It is famous for its wonderful collection of Goya (“Los fusilamientos de 3 de Mayo”), Velázquez (”Las Meninas”) as well as many other paintings and sculptures by influential artists. It houses one of the world’s finest collections of European art which at the moment adds up to around 8600 paintings and 700 sculptures. Well worth a visit.

Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía

A museum of contemporary Spanish and international art dating from the end of the 19th century to current times. It is famous for the painting “Guernica” by Picasso, in addition to a number of works from Dalí, Juan Gris, and Miró.

Museo Thyssen

A museum of both ancient and modern art dating from the Middle Ages all the way through to Pop Art from the 1980’s! It boasts a wide variety of styles: Italian primitive, German Renaissance, American painting from the 19th century, impressionism, German expressionism, Russian constructivism and many more!

Museo Arqueológico Nacional

Learn about objects a nd artifacts that have come from different Spanish towns as well as from Mediterranean countries. These artifacts date back to ancient times and with help from rigorous, attractive, interesting and critical information, you can learn about the meaning behind them all. It is a great way to learn and understand more about the rich history of Spain and the Mediterranean.

Museo Nacional de Ciencias Naturales

A perfect museum for kids as well as adults that proudly demonstrates the world’s natural heritage with a huge collection of specimens. Here are just a few examples: minerals, seaweeds, plants, animals as well as utensils and weapons from a number of different cultures and times. There are more than 6 million specimens in the museum!

Madrid books that I dig

I am a travel book junkie. Oh and I am also a planner. If I am even considering a vacation for 3 years down the road…I will have all the appropriate books for it as soon as the thought pops in my head. If work sends me to a destination that I have not been to before then a travel book is hastily purchased and every waking moment outside of work responsibilities is spent “experiencing” said new destination. The quantity of travel books that made the journey to Madrid is alarming and a topic not discussed between Will and I because I am sure the cost of shipping my “collection” outweighed its value…by a lot. As you’re planning your move to Madrid [and any outside travel] you might also find some of these sources useful. Happy Reading!

LIVE
Living Abroad in Spain – This book is good for the nitty gritty. Need to know what steps to take to bring your pet into Spain? Concerned about how Spain will react to your race and religion? It covers many of the logistics you’ll be concerned with but don’t rely on this source solely as I feel its pretty high level given that it has to cover logistics for all areas within Spain. The author is American so its safe to report that the intended audience is North American – or at least English speakers.

TRAVEL
Rick Steves’ Spain [With Pull-Out Map] [RICK STEVES SPAIN-2009] – Whether you’re already a Rick Steve’s follower or not, this is a great book. With his guidance you find yourself often in with the locals, eating regional specialities at a decent price. His books always give helpful regional/population tidbits in an easy-to-understand language which makes the reading enjoyable.

Madrid (City Guide) – Very extensive and very helpful. Sites, restaurants, bars…etc are conveniently broken down by neighborhood. Information on Madrid is thorough – so much so that it can serve as a semi-decent relocation guide as well.

Lonely Planet Madrid Condensed – Great pocket size guide to stuff in the purse and take around as your exploring all the main sites in Madrid. Great for getting acquainted with Madrid.

Fodor’s See It Spain, 3rd Edition – The book itself is aesthetically pleasing. It covers all of Spain and therefore only provides the most basic and most popular of information on sites. However once it gave me a great tidbit on how to find a discounted room at a upscale hotel in Valencia and it worked!

Fodor’s Madrid’s 25 Best, 4th Edition – Another good pocket guide for the basics with some good walking tours. Read this one before you go out but then take the Lonely Planet Madrid condensed with you for more detail.

Going to the Doctor in Spanish

Last week, like many other people, I was really sick and completely bedridden for almost an entire week. After two years in Spain, it was finally time to go to the doctor for the first time. Luckily for me, Raúl took care of finding the number of the nearest Sanitas doctor. This was great, except for the fact that it did not occur to him that it might make sense for me to see an English speaking doctor. I did not have the strength to undo what was already done nor could I fathom waiting any longer to get treated, so I sucked it up and made the appointment.

While the experience was positive overall, there are a few things I would have done differently to prepare myself if I could do it all over again. Even though my Spanish is strong, I still felt a bit lost. For better or worse, I am not used to discussing flu-like symptoms in Spanish, so those words just were not part of my vocabulary. I tried to tell the doctor that my ears hurt by saying “me duelen las orejas” but apparently that direct translation from English is just not a correct way of describing this symptom in Spanish. I quickly reverted to hand gestures, and before long the doctor did as well since it was clear to him that I was just not following. Looking back, my advice would be as follows:

• As a heads up, when you call to make the appointment, they are going to ask you what type of doctor you want to see. I did not know what to say (a doctor doctor, I was thinking). Try to have this one figured out before you call. In the end, I needed Medicina General, which makes sense in retrospect, but I have never had to make such a distinction when calling to make a doctor’s appointment back home.
• Write down a translated list of your key symptoms using an English-Spanish dictionary before you go. This is especially critical because I have noted there are several “false friends” in the health arena, such as constipada (hint: it has nothing to do with your digestion).
• Do not hesitate to ask the doctor to repeat himself several times; at the end of the day this is our health we are talking about. I left the doctor thinking that he prescribed me some sort of throat gargle that I needed to mix with hot water twice a day, only to find when I went to the pharmacy that he really prescribed me anti-biotic pills. I still have no idea how I got so mixed up.
• If you are on any other medications before you go, have the names written down along with that they are and what they do, translated into Spanish. The doctor is clearly going to ask you this, and if you are not sure, for example, what the words for insulin and what it treats are in Spanish, you could be putting yourself at risk.

All in all, this experience was not nearly as scary as it sounds, and I am lucky that I only had a throat infection (I think?) and not something more serious. The doctor could not be any nicer and more patient, and I am happy to report that the prescribed treatment worked and I feel so much better. Although I am proof positive that this can be done successfully without making these advanced preparations, in the end I think they can help quite a bit.

Holiday Lights in Madrid

In just 3 days the city will finally turn on the holiday lights, after what seemed like weeks of unlit lights hanging in the streets. Each street has a different theme, from boxes of presents on Calle Goya, to snowflakes on Calle Mayor, to giant chandeliers on Jose Ortega y Gasset. The lights will be up all this month, and extend into the first week of January, so take advantage of a dry night (what is with all this rain lately?) and grab your honey or some friends and take a jolly walk through Madrid to enjoy the lights.

While on your walk, you may want to visit one of the many Christmas markets that are set up throughout the city. There are some especially for kids, like “Cortylandia” in Plaza Felipe II. Corte Ingles runs this of course, so don’t be surprised if after enjoying some kiddie rides your children want to scour the store for pricey toys.

A great market for enjoying the holidays is the large annual market in the Plaza Mayor. There are plenty of stalls selling holiday decorations and collectibles. You can buy a Christmas tree here, including those small apartment friendly ones, along with wreaths and other evergreen decorations. There is a carousel for the kids (and adults. Hey, why not?) and of course tons of lights. The lights in the Plaza Mayor are giant circular orbs that hang from the sky. Festive, yes, but also sort of like experiencing a UFO invasion.

Surprisingly, there were no food stalls at the main Christmas market. Upon arriving I was searching for some semblance of holiday fare (my mind instantly brought me back to my last gluhwein and kartoffelpuffer experience in Germany), but this market was really more for presents and decorations. I did find a stand that sells nuts (the kind they carmelize) in the little Christmas market just south of Sol in front of Cine Ideal. And of course there are lots of bars and restaurants in this area to top off the night with some wine or hot chocolate.

Enjoy the holiday season, everyone!

Where to get Thanksgiving fixings in Madrid

It’s almost Thanksgiving, or should I say, el día de acción de gracias? For the Americans out there, this is understandably a hard time to be away from home. Ah, Thanksgiving. Family gatherings, grandma’s homemade pies, football games on the television, the Macy’s parade, and a viewing of It’s a Wonderful Life, The Wizard of Oz, or, my all time favorite holiday movie, A Christmas Story. And, the best thing about Thanksgiving, the FOOD!

Looking for a piece of home? Here are some tips on how you can make your own Thanksgiving here in Madrid.

Pumpkin and other yumminess – There are two American stores in Madrid. One is appropriately called the American Store. The other is Taste of America. I took a little trip over to Taste of America yesterday to see what this place is all about.

You can get many essential Thanksgiving ingredients here, including brown sugar and canned pumpkin. Don’t be fooled by the two cans of pumpkin here in this image – there were boxes of canned pumpkin just waiting to be stocked. They have marshmallows for candied yams, should you want to show your new European friends just how versatile marshmallows can be. And, although not necessary for Thanksgiving, if anyone is craving SPAM (does anyone really eat SPAM?), cheddar cheese in a bottle, or Jim Beam wing sauce, rest assured you can buy these at Taste of America as well, along with enough Duncan Hines to rot your teeth right out of your mouth. Although the size of a 7/11 (a teeny 7/11), it carries some much needed American products for this time of year. There is some sticker shock (6 Euro for a box of cake mix?), but sometimes it’s just worth it.

Veggies and Sides – Your local grocer should carry most of what you need. The Mercado de Ventas has actual corn on the cob, along with pretty much every other vegetable you could ever want.

Basic vocab list for the market: sweet potatoes (batatas), green beans (judías verdes), corn (maíz), pumpkin (calabaza), potatoes (patatas), onion (cebolla).

Turkey – the staple of Thanksgiving. We are surrounded by meat in Spain, yet somehow turkey always seems to be left out. Rest assured, there are bird options here in Madrid. You can order a turkey from a pollería, or you can buy one at a market, like the Mercado de Ventas. I was there earlier this week and at the sight of me the men behind the meat counter started shouting about my upcoming fiesta, and how I should buy a pavo from them. There were a bunch of turkeys right there, ready to go.

Measuring – Avoid measuring disasters by converting to metric correctly.

Happy cooking and happy Thanksgiving!

Five ways Madrid has changed me

After six years, it’s strange to look back on my first months in Madrid and try to remember what they were like. For one thing, back then my life revolved around balancing my Master’s program with going out too much, whereas now it’s all about paying the bills and day-to-day living. In addition, the fact that I came here straight out of college means I’ve spent my entire adult life in Madrid. Things that strike newcomers as strange, mystifying, or even absurd, seem totally normal to me now.

But there are a few things that spring to mind when I examine how my attitudes and overall Spanish experience have changed over the years—apart from the fact that I recently married a Spaniard and now have honest-to-God suegros. That’s a big one, but the rest are a bit more subtle. Here are five ways Madrid has changed me.

I eat a lot more

I’m not talking about quantity; in fact, in terms of portions, I eat a lot less. Rather, I’m much more adventurous about trying things than when I first came, and now enjoy things I swore I would never put in my mouth. Morcilla? Get in my belly. Octopus? You better hide, little cephalopod. Pigs’ ears? Bring ‘em on (in small quantities). I’ve even learned to love jamón-flavored potato chips, and the world of marisco gets broader every day.

There are a few things I will probably never get into, like sheeps’ brains, or tuna on pizza. And I’m still not really good with raw tomatoes, but I’m working on that.

Buying things has become and adventure

Here’s how I used to shop for pretty much anything:

1. Go to Target.
2. Purchase item.
3. Purchase a million other unnecessary items because they have everything.

Here’s how I now shop for anything other than clothes and everyday groceries:

1. Figure out what the thing I need is called in Spanish. Scour the Web to find a few different versions in case the shopkeeper doesn’t know what I’m talking about. Also look up any related descriptive vocabulary.
2. Try to think of the place where I’m most likely to find the thing I need, and scour the Web for any potential specialty stores.
3. Get on the metro and go to the first option. If it’s a small shop, make sure to say hello. Tell the clerk what I need. If they don’t know what I’m talking about, describe it. Wait for them to tell me they don’t have it. Ask if they have any ideas where I might be able to find it. Make sure to say goodbye.
4. Repeat Step 3 ten times or so. Become slightly obsessed.
5. Either give up and decide I can do with out it, or bask in triumph when I finally find it by tweeting, calling my husband, and perhaps doing a victory dance.

Walking down the street stresses me out

This is a huge pet peeve for me, so I could easily rant about people who stop in the middle of the sidewalk to chat or check email on their phones (really? you can’t move over to the side?); or people who expect you to move so they can ride by on their bikes (hello, empty street where vehicles are supposed to go!); or people who don’t clean up after their dogs (I don’t care if it’s good luck—it’s gross). Heck, I could even go off on the inconvenience of parking posts. But I will restrain myself.

Spaniards love to complain about “las prisas de Madrid”—how everyone’s always rushing around in this city. Why is it, then, that I’m constantly yelling at people in my head while trying to walk down the street? I remind myself that the paseo is part of the culture here, but I can’t help it. I don’t walk to walk. I walk to get somewhere.

I know I’m not alone in this; just the other day my friend Susan was complaining about the same thing. “You would think that after all these years I’d be used to it,” she said, referring to Madrileños’ apparent inability to move to allow for passing fellow pedestrians. “But it bothers me now more than ever.” Me too, Susan, me too.

I’ve learned how to loosen up

For all the stress of shopping and walking in Madrid there’s a leisurely meal or relaxed glass of vino with friends to remind me why I love it here. The easygoing lifestyle is one of my favorite things about living in Spain and it has come to permeate all parts of my life, from running errands—I’m much more patient about waiting in lines and have learned to work around businesses’ weird schedules—to sense of humor—I’m way less concerned about keeping it PC. [Side note: Don’t get me wrong, certain comments and attitudes still appall me. (Seriously? You can’t find any actual black men to play Balthazar at Christmastime??)]

The big one, of course, is free time. I’m practically forced to take it easy on Sundays because there’s nothing else to do that day. Everything’s closed. No errands possible. Okay, that’s changed over the years, but the attitude sank in before the stores started opening on Sundays (yes, I’ve been here that long), and the mindset stuck. Best are the long weekend lunches that turn into carajillos at a café or cañas on a terraza, run into a tapas dinner, and end up in a bar at 2 am. I love those days.

Spain has taught me to prioritize

Related to long lunches and relaxing Sundays, perhaps the attitude I’ve most come to appreciate is Spaniards’ work-life balance. At first, my American upbringing made it hard to come to terms with the fact that I’ve pieced together an income, rather than having a steady job and a set career track. But I make enough to pay the bills, go out with my friends, and travel a couple of times a year. I never feel bad about taking vacations—which is good because my husband, true to Spanish form, would never dream of giving them up. I’ve learned that I really don’t need the newest, fastest, shiniest things that the US always told me I did (not to mention the low-carbiest, fresh-smellingest, double-dutiest…). And you know what? When I walk down the street, look around me, and reflect on my life here, I always think, “I’m so happy”.

English movie theaters in Madrid

How’s your Spanish? If it’s like mine, it’s not particularly great. For me, seeing a movie in Spanish, without English subtitles, is more work than entertainment. And that’s what the movies are to me, entertainment. I want to sit back, relax, and start eating the giant Milke chocolate bar I’ve smuggled into the theater.

There are some good options for English movies here in Madrid. The largest of the English theaters is Cine Ideal, located near Sol in Plaza San Jacinto Benavente. The complex is large and hosts the latest films, conveniently in V.O.S. (version original subtitulada – which is most often English). You can also purchase tickets online. Cine Ideal also features movies in 3D. Before the holidays I saw the latest Narnia in 3D here, and although the film was just ok I did enjoy wearing those goofy 3D glasses.

Another great English movie option is the Renoir theaters. They have locations all over the city (and Spain), and although the theaters are smaller they usually have a least one English movie playing. The Renoir theater closest to me is Renoir Retiro, which has 4 theaters and usually 1-2 are English movies.

These two theaters are my favorite English theaters here in Madrid. Cine Ideal is perfect for a giant selection of new movies. It does get crowded on the weekends so do come early to get your tickets. On the other side, Renoir Retiro is quiet, small, and very close to my apartment, which makes me love it even more.

Note: Some theaters require you to choose your seat when you purchase your ticket, so if you are going with a group try and purchase your tickets together to ensure you get to sit as a group.

Happy viewing!

Neighborhood: Goya

I live in the Goya barrio, which is part of the district of Salamanca, here in Madrid. More specifically, it’s basically a giant square bordered by Principe de Vergara, Calle O’Donnell, Calle del Doctor Esquerdo, and Calle de Don Ramon de la Cruz.

When we first moved to Madrid and were thinking about where to live we were admittedly a bit overwhelmed. Do we want the hustle and bustle of Sol? The twisty streets of La Latina? The gritty yet cool area of Chueca? Or do we head out of the center altogether? We decided on Goya for a variety of reasons. It’s very close to Retiro, a quick one-line ride into Sol on the red line, is rather upscale without being pretentious, and is pretty close to IE, my husband’s university.

I’d say one of the most awesome things about Goya is living near the WiZink Center. I’ve never actually seen a concert here, but I’ve been entertained on many evenings by the happens in Plaza San Felipe II, right next to the venue. People lined up for concerts, food stalls, sometimes even music that’s being played outside of the WiZink Center makes for an entertaining evening. If Shakira comes back to Madrid I will certainly have to secure a ticket and see her from a proper seat. On the other side of the WiZink Centeris the Real Casa de la Moneda, which is basically a big money museum.

For food shopping there are plenty of options in Goya. There is a large supermarket at one of the two giant Corte Inglés buildings at the Goya/Alcalá intersection. The other Corte Inglés building houses a level dedicated to luxury and gourmet goods, along with a stocked papeleria with a small greeting card section. A decent-sized Carrefour is located on Calle Conde de Peñalver, not far from the Correos, and a KFC (hey, you might be hungry after waiting 45 minutes to post something). There is also a row of fantastic local shops (a butcher, fruit/veggies, and a fish guy) located on Hermosilla, if you’d like some local flavor instead of the big brands.

Just outside of the technical Goya zone, on the southern side, is a great little movie theater that plays English films, Renoir Retiro. Mondays are discount days. The theater only shows 4 movies at a time, and the theaters themselves are rather small, creating an intimate and friendly atmosphere. They even have a book swap book shelf on the second floor. Take a book, bring a book!

Other useful places to know: there is a hospital and a dentist’s office (a Sanitas office) on Calle del Doctor Esquerdo, and two Chinese “bazaar” shops (which are full of cheap but often useful items), one on Hermosilla, and the other on Alcántara.

Overall I really like living in Goya. It’s close to everything in Madrid, but isn’t smack in the middle of the party. Beautiful balconies, quaint European side streets, and proximity to the park and main center makes Goya a great barrio to live in. If you’d like help finding an apartment in this area, try checking in with Madrid Rent Flat or Madrid Home Stay!

Finding fresh air

When looking at the picture I have of myself on top of the mirador of the Palacio de Comunciaciones in downtown Madrid (visit! It’s pretty!), most people say things like “wow, you are so lucky to live in such a pretty place!” My friend who studies environmental issues, however, pointed to the skyline and said, “look, a little photochemical smog”. And you’re still deeply obsessed by Finding Fresh Air in Madrid…

Air pollution is, like almost every other city in the world, a part of life in Madrid. Yes, we have those beautiful blue skies, but sometimes our atmosphere (and our streets) need the cleaning that a good downpour can bring. But reports from local government state that air quality is better than a decade ago and, unlike many other cities, it is constantly improving with new environmental regulations.

If you’re particularly sensitive to urban air pollution, however slight it may be, here are a few easy ways to find the feeling of fresh air right here in the city center:

1. Spend time in Parque del Buen Retiro, which is large enough and far enough from streets to have significantly better air quality than the surrounding streets. This has the added benefit of being a beautiful place to spend time and exercise!
2. Speaking of running, if you can’t make it to Retiro, try doing your running in a gym; runners take in much more air than a person at rest, which means you may prefer an indoor solution.
3. Choose your outdoor paths to avoid highly-trafficked roads. The worst air pollution is, predictably, near high-traffic roads, and so you can use your commute to find a less-travelled path to wherever you need to go.
4. If you must be out and about, shoot for early morning. An early morning run is slightly less problematic for your lungs because of the ways pollutants circulate during the day.

For more information about air quality, including a map that shows up-to-date air quality around the city, visit http://www.mambiente.munimadrid.es/svca/index.php

Introduction to Madrid with context

Living abroad means many things. One thing it’s sure to entail is a stream of visitors looking for an exclusive look at Madrid, since you know it all soooo well, right?!

If you’re looking for a fun activity here in Madrid for your guests, one where they can actually learn something beyond “this is called a cana”, consider sending them to Context. Context offers small group “walking seminars”, with no more than 6 guests. There are no “tour guides”, but rather the walks are led by docents. The small group dynamic lets you ask questions, or stop for photos, without feeling like you’re holding up the group. The docents leading the tours are more specialized, having earned advanced degrees in art history, classics, urban planning, etc.

In addition to “Introduction to Madrid”, Context offers two “Art Walks” that include “Goya in Madrid”, and “Prado”. There are also some history oriented tours, featuring “Flamenco”, “Life is a Dream, Intellectual Madrid”, “Civil War and Madrid Under Franco”, and “El Escorial”. Context also offers a five hour excursion to Toledo. So pick your interest, or just get an overview of the city.

I participated in the “Introduction to Madrid” walk this past weekend. The clouds were beginning to cover the sky, ominously looking like rain, when I met our docent, Andrea, at the meeting point in Puerta del Sol. Luckily the weather held out for our 2.5 hour tour, which covered the palace area, La Latina, and Huertas, in addition to Sol. Andrea described how Madrid came to be formed, and shared details of the Hapsburg kings, Spanish customs, and, in particular, the architecture of the city. And we took a visit to the Mercado de San Miguel, where I grabbed some delicious olives before we were off to the Plaza Mayor. I snapped shots along the way with my fancy camera, as did Mike, another New Yorker on the walk, and I was grateful for the opportunity to stop and pause in this wonderful city.

Although I have seen these parts of Madrid many times now, it was wonderful to hear more history of the city, and I have a feeling the themed tours (especially Franco) would be particularly interesting.

Madrid - Using the city as a resource to learn Spanish!

If you are studying Spanish then you’re in the right place! One of the great things about Madrid is that it’s still a very Spanish city. It hasn’t given over its soul to mass tourism, and although an increasing number of people can speak English here, what you hear in the bars, the shops and in the street is mainly Spanish, meaning that there infinite opportunities to practice. The AIL Madrid Guide to the city is designed as a learning resource to help your practice become as effective as possible! Here are some of our top tips to help you fully immerse yourself into the Spanish culture:

Los mercados (the markets)

Buying food is a necessity. Doing your regular shopping in a traditional market instead of a supermarket will not only get you fresher produce, but it will force you to interact with a real person… in Spanish! It’s a great way to consolidate basic vocabulary, to practice requests as well of course numbers.

In the last few years a lot of great gastro markets have appeared throughout the city. However, we recommend you try one of the many traditional ones. There’s one in every neighborhood. Here are three of our favorites.

1. Mercado de Maravillas. Calle Bravo Murillo 122. Dating back to 1942 it’s Madrid’s largest market and, strangely, the second largest fish market in the world after Tokyo! It’s a great place to improve your fish, fruit and vegetable related vocabulary!
2. Mercado de San Antón. Calle de Augusto Figueroa 24. A classic working class Madrid market in the central barrio of Lavapiés. Just listen to people talking and absorb the language!
3. Mercado de La Paz. Calle Ayala 28. Built in 1879 in the heart of the swanky Salamanca District, this combines tradition and style, and is a beautiful setting to hone in on your Spanish shopping skills.

La Filmoteca

Calle Santa Isabel 3. There are few better ways of developing listening comprehension skills than following a movie and focusing on the dialogue. Even if it’s a challenge, listening out for set phrases is great for your auditory comprehension. The fantastically good value Cine Doré, known as the Filmoteca, has regular cycles of Spanish cinema and is a beautiful setting for the Spanish cinema experience.

Instituto Cervantes

Calle Alcalá 49. The Instituto Cervantes not only oversees the accreditation system which guarantees quality control at Spanish language schools, but also exists to promote Spanish Language and Culture. Its emblematic HQ on Calle Alcalá holds regular exhibitions, a must for any serious student of Spanish.

La música

Listening to music in Spanish is as pleasant a way as any to tune your ear to the rhythms of Spanish speech. There are a number of bars which specialize in Spanish cantautores (singer/songwriters), often completely free or for less than 10 euros.

1. La Fídula. Calle Huertas 57, great area, great live music.
2. Libertad 8. Calle Libertad 8, a historic venue for cantautores in the heart of Chueca.
3. The Dog & Roll. Avenida de Brasil 17, a variety of Spanish artists from folk to rock n roll.

El microteatro

Spanish theatre in small spaces! This is up and coming in Madrid. Great for improving listening skills and is often interactive, meaning that you can put your Spanish into practice!

1. Microteatro Por Dinero. Calle Loreto Prado y Enrique Chicote, 9. Located in hipster territory in a former brothel in Malasaña!
2. Esconditeatro. Calle Estu¬dios 2. An intimate experience in La Latina.
3. La Infinito Café Libros. Calle Tres Peces 22. In multi cultural Lavapiés, a bar upstairs, and micro-theatre downstairs!
4. La Escalera de Jacob. Calle Lavapiés 9. Also in Lavapiés. Micro-theatre every Wednesday with 3 pieces for just 9 euros.

There are also a number of things you can do to make speaking Spanish a part of your daily life in Madrid.

• Football in bars! Even if you’re not a fan, watching a game of La Liga in a crowded bar full of Spaniards is as good a way as any to strike up a conversation, and you’ll be anything but bored!
• Kiosks. The city is full of them. If you can’t handle a full novel then try buying the odd magazine, or better still books of crosswords and word games.
• Social media. Change your phone settings and social media apps to Spanish now! If you’re looking for Spanish company, and a chance to converse check out www.uolala.com or www.singlesmadrid.es

It’s a great city. Once you start to relate to it in Spanish it becomes even greater! Enjoy!

J&J Books and Coffee

I have always been an avid reader, but since moving to Madrid my appetite for good books has been almost insatiable. I find that after a long day of working and speaking entirely in Spanish, my brain needs its English fix to rest and unwind a little bit. While my reading comprehension skills in Spanish are pretty solid at this point, I seek comfort in the relaxing nature of reading in my native English. One of my hobbies in New York was collecting second hand books so I was able to bring a few over when I moved here, but after the first few weeks I desperately needed to replenish my supply, and that is when I discovered J&J Books and Coffee.

J&J Books is a café/bar/bookstore located in the Malasaña neighborhood. Among other things, they host various events during the week such as intercambio nights and quiz nights that provide a fun, casual environment to meet other expats as well as Spaniards looking to brush up on their English.

The bottom floor holds a large collection of second-hand, English-language books. The quantity of books is vast and impressive and is divided by category (romance, mystery, biography, classics, teaching English, health, etc.) to ease navigation. The website also includes a browse tool that enables you to see what books they have in their catalogue (by author, title or subject), but I know in my case I tend to enjoy the process of browsing the shelves and seeing what´s out there.

Discovering this store has been such a treat for me. Few are the days when I leave there with less than four or five books to devour. Given that J&J buys books from its customers as well, they often have many new releases on hand but those tend to move fairly quickly. Enjoy!

J&J Books and Coffee
C/ Espíritu Santo, 47
Metro: Noviciado